Two weeks ago, I ended my Winter vacation with a tour of Korea's Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). This is one touristy thing I knew before coming to Korea that I had to do while living here, so it was very exciting for me. My tour did not include a visit to the Joint Security Area, unfortunately. I would gladly do another tour to see it though.
Here's a little background information for you. The Military Demarcation Line (MDL) which winds 155 miles (241 km) across the Korean Peninsula from East to West is surrounded by the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). Under the provisions of Armistice Agreement (cease-fire_ signed on July 1953, both sides pulled back 2km from the last line of military contact (MDL) to insure peace, to watch the DMZ and guard against any resumption of hostilities. DMZ is a buffer Zone ceasing all military and hostile actions and well known for its practical ecosystem. (Source: my tour pamphlet)
My tour bus left from Lotte Hotel in Seoul at 8am on Saturday morning. My tour group was half English-speaking and half Japanese-speaking so we had two guides who took turns speaking on the one hour bus ride northward to the DMZ. I used the Japanese portion to take a little nap because I was super tired.
Going North!
When we arrived, we stopped at a military check point where a soldier came on the bus to check everyone's passport or alien registration. Then we were in! I learned that it's impossible to get in if you are not part of a tour group--private tourist cars are not allowed inside. Also,every DMZ visitor can only be inside the zone for 2 and a half hours, so the tour felt a little rushed at times. Another strictly enforced restriction is picture taking--you are not allowed to take pictures on the bus while it is travelling between locations.
Our first stop was Dorasan station, the last railway stop in South Korea and first to North Korea. I did not know anything about Dorasan station before this tour. Learning new things it wonderful!
This railway station has an interesting story. It was opened in 2007 to transport materials to the Kaesong Industrial Region in North Korea, where products would be made and then shipped back to the South all via freight trains. Dorasan station's use was short-lived though. One year later, the North closed the operation.
A long list of South Koreans who donated money for the construction of the station and railway
"To Pyeongyang"
Crazy how easy this sign makes getting into North Korea sounds, right?
Dorasan is now only a tourist location
Koreans supported the construction of this station mainly in hopes that someday it would be one end of a trans-continental railroad
Standing inside Dorasan, South Korea's physical isolation from the rest of the continent really hit me. Think about it, Koreans cannot travel to any other country by land, even though they do not live on an island.
Ticket booth
It's actually a beautiful building. And the cleanest station I've ever been in! It was kind of eerie
When the groundbreaking happened in 2002, President Kim Dae-Jung gave a speech
...and so did President George W. Bush!
Selfie with the Pres
President George W. Bush's message on a railroad tie: "May this railroad unite Korean families."
Click here for a quality Wikipedia article on Dorasan Station if you would like more information!
Next stop was the Dora observatory, where I got to do a little spying on North Korea (no, I didn't see Kim Jong-Un).
Nice paint job, eh?
Off in the distance is North Korea
My tour guide pointed out certain landmarks and structure but honestly, I can't find them in the picture
There is a flagpole for the village in the South and one for the propaganda village in the North. Can you find them??
There they are! North's propoganda village on the left and South's citizen village to the right (yes, people really live there).
Up until last year there was a photo line. The previous three pictures would have been forbidden!
Hey guess what this is?? The picture I took from the photo line! Thank goodness the photo restrictions have been relaxed because this is a joke...you can't see anything!
Another picture from the silly photo line
After the observatory, we went tunnel exploring! We went into the 3rd infiltration tunnel. Some background information: in the 1970's, South Korean government was tipped off by a North Korean defector that the North was digging tunnels for a surprise attack on Seoul. Long story short, South Korea slowly but surely located 4 tunnels all along the border. There may be several more, which is not a comforting thought.
We could not take pictures inside the tunnel but, you know, it was a dark and damp and earthy. We walked all the way to where the South installed the first of three concrete barriers to close off the tunnel. So yes, we walk a looong way through a dark tunnel to look at a concrete slab. It was awesome. Seriously, I actually loved it haha.
I highly recommend further study on the discovery of these tunnels. Here, I'll help you get started with another Wikipedia article about the
third infiltration tunnel!
As part of my tour package, I got to take a little monorail up and down the start of the tunnel. Cheaper tours had to walk the steep 240 feet (73 meters) hehehe
We had to put all bags, purses, and cameras inside these lockers before going into the tunnel.
We were allowed to bring cell phones but no pictures allowed!
I saw a teenage girl in another tour group taking a selfie on her phone in the tunnel ಠ_ಠ
We were required to wear hardhats. Safety first!
These were very nice to have. That tunnel was not very high.
I may be a mere 5 feet tall but I hit my head 3 times...
and I heard many a clunk of plastic against granite from my fellow tour mates too.
Next we went to a little visitor center/museum where we watched a super cheesy 10 minute documentary about the DMZ. It was like, super dramatic. I know, I know, this is a serious situation but you have to see this video to understand.
As I mentioned before, the tour was super rushed so there were a lot of people running around snapping pictures as quick as possible rather than meandering through the museum, as is preferred.
There were a lot of guns
I don't know much about guns but these looked interesting
This was really cool and I wish I had more time to look at it.
It was a large model of the DMZ area that you could walk on
This picture is silly. I was taking my own selfie but I wasn't ready for it. Who does that??
I always love these button-pushing-light-up maps
A beautiful pro-unification sculpture outside the visitor center and 3rd tunnel area
Final picture inside the DMZ
Before we could leave the DMZ, we had to stop at the checkpoint again where a soldier made sure everyone who went in was going out.
Fresh out of the DMZ
Last stop was Imjingak Peace Park for lunch. I didn't take a picture of the food (I know, don't be too shocked!) but just know that it was the best bulgogi I have ever had. However, Seoul region kimchi has nothing on Gwangju kimchi. Mmm kimchi.
Imjingak Park is actually really cool. There were amusement rides and stuff! As well as memorials dedicated to remembrance of the Korean War and also to the unification of the divided North and South. There is a US Forces' memorial and Harry S. Truman memorial as well. I did not have nearly enough time to explore the whole area, unfortunately.
Mangbaeddan Alter
This alter was built in 1985 for people who were displaced by the Korean War. People whose homes and relatives are in North Korea but are now stuck in South Korea come here to bow to their ancestors during New Years Day and Chuseok.
There was some bowing marathon happening that day, to show support for unification.
Freedom Bridge
This is where hostage exchanges took place. But my tour guide told me it's not even the real bridge or real location haha
You could write peaceful wishes on a ribbon and tie it to the fence
I did not catch the full story of this train...but I know it was attacked by Chinese troops during the war.
These is a sign in front of it that says "The train wants to run," suggesting the unification of Korea
The Bell of Peace
The bell was constructed at the turn of the century in hopes of moving past the days of war and onward towards unification and peace. It is rung every New Year.
Next to the Bell of Peace is a memorial displaying rocks from the battlegrounds of 86 different wars/conflicts around the world
After a day of exploring the DMZ, it was time to journey back to Seoul. I could have easily spent a couple more hours wandering around but alas, I could not.
My whole life I have known Korea as "North Korea" and "South Korea." I've accepted the peninsula as two permanently separated countries. The most eye-opening part of this tour was the incredible support for unification. The idea of Korea unifying seems so strange and impossible but not to the Korean people. I did not realize before this tour how much Koreans want it to happen. In fact, it feels like they expect it to happen someday. Dorasan station was not built
if Korea is unified but for
when Korea is unified.
Going to the DMZ is something I have wanted to do ever since I was in high school. And this experience exceeded my expectations. If you find yourself in South Korea, a DMZ tour is a must.
